A saree is a single length of unstitched cloth that is wrapped, pleated and pinned on your body, so the silhouette is created fresh each time and the fit adjusts to you. A lehenga-choli is stitched — a flared skirt, a fitted blouse and a separate dupatta — so the volume is built into the garment and the waist is fixed. A saree takes longer to wear and is more forgiving over time; a lehenga is quicker on the day but must fit at the waist.

Cotton, because it breathes and does not cling in humidity. Tussar is the next choice if you want something dressier for a daytime function — it is a wild silk with a textured surface and a natural gold undertone, without the heat of a full silk. Georgette and crepe also travel well and resist creasing. Keep heavy silk, banarasi and tissue for weddings, receptions and winter evenings, as their weight is what makes them warm.

Wear the petticoat and blouse first, matching the petticoat to the saree rather than your skin. Tuck the plain end in at your right hip and take one full turn around the waist. Make the pleats at the front, each about a hand's width, keeping the lower edge level with the floor, and tuck them in slightly left of the navel. Take the rest around your back, bring the pallu over your left shoulder to about knee length, then pin at the shoulder and at the pleats. The lower edge must be level all the way round and the pleats must all face the same way.