Length, mostly. A kurta is the longer tunic, falling anywhere from the knee to the ankle, while a kurti is the shorter version that usually ends between mid-thigh and the knee. In Indian shops the two words are used interchangeably and nobody minds. As a rule of thumb, the longer the tunic, the more formal and traditional it reads; the shorter it is, the easier it is to wear with trousers and the better it moves through an ordinary day.

Cotton, and its lighter relatives. Cotton breathes, absorbs sweat instead of trapping it and does not cling in humidity, which is exactly what an Indian summer demands. Muslin is cotton spun very fine, so it is even lighter and falls softly. Chanderi blends cotton with silk and stays airy while carrying a faint glow, which makes it the pick for a daytime function. Avoid satin and heavy synthetics in the heat: they sit on the skin and hold warmth in.

An A-line is the safest answer for most people, because it narrows at the shoulder and widens from the bust, skimming the hips and stomach rather than gripping them. A straight kurti keeps one unbroken vertical line and looks cleanest on slim and rectangular frames. Flared cuts add drama from the chest down, though a petite frame should keep the flare shorter. A kaftan is the most forgiving cut of all, but it needs a defined neckline or shoulder detail so it does not read as shapeless. A cape layer puts structure across the shoulders, which balances wider hips.