An anarkali is a kurta silhouette: it fits through the chest, flares from a high seam under the bust, and is worn over a separate bottom, usually with a dupatta. A gown is one continuous stitched piece from shoulder to floor with no separate bottom and no dupatta obligation, and its seam can sit at the natural waist, at the hip, or nowhere at all. An anarkali reads as Indian wear first; a gown reads as formalwear first, and takes its Indian character from the embroidery, zari or sequin work on the surface rather than from the cut.

Net is the usual answer for heavy occasion wear, because it is sheer and light and stands slightly away from the body, so it carries dense embroidery and sequin work without sagging under the weight — it does need a lining. Georgette is fluid and forgiving and moves as you walk. Satin is heavy and high-shine and shows whatever sits underneath, so it works best on a straight cut. Crepe is matte and skims rather than clings. Organza holds a sculptural shape but creases through a long function, and velvet suits winter weddings only. For a summer function, judge the weight of the cloth rather than the name of the fibre.

An A-line is the safest cut available: fitted at the top and widening gently to the floor, it skims the hip and stomach without gripping either. A straight column suits an even line from bust to hip and rewards height. A mermaid grips to the knee before flaring, so it needs confidence and a plan for sitting down comfortably. An empire seam sits under the bust and skims everything below, which makes it useful during pregnancy and generally forgiving. Cape sleeves broaden the shoulder and balance fuller hips, a V-neck lengthens a short neck, and a boat neck does the opposite. If you are petite, keep the surface work vertical and set the hem at your heel height.