Sherwani

Length and formality. A sherwani is a long, lined coat that falls past the knee, buttons all the way to a band collar, and is worn over a churidar — it is the groom's garment and the most ceremonial thing in Indian menswear. A jodhpuri, or bandhgala, is a tailored jacket-and-trouser suit that stops at the hip; it keeps the closed collar but takes its fit from Western tailoring. Wear a sherwani for the wedding itself, and a jodhpuri for a reception, an engagement or a sangeet where a full sherwani would be too much.

Ivory, cream and gold are the traditional wedding-day shades because they photograph cleanly and let the embroidery carry the outfit. Beige and chikoo give the same effect more quietly and suit a daytime nikah. For a sangeet, wear an actual colour — maroon, wine, deep blue or emerald — because black loses all its detail under stage lighting. Rose pink and pastels have become genuine groom shades for an outdoor day function.

It depends on the season. Silk and raw silk hold a structured line and carry a soft sheen that works under evening lighting. Brocade and jacquard are woven rather than printed, so the pattern lives inside the cloth and lasts for years — both are heavy, which suits a winter wedding. Velvet is warmest and best kept to cold months. For a daytime or outdoor ceremony, cotton silk and blends breathe far better. Factor in embroidery too, since heavy work adds weight on top of whatever the base fabric weighs.